Our Backyard

2009 Moffat County Fair is Aug. 1-8

Nickel Features — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 14:50:00 -0600

There's a little something for everyone at the Moffat County Fair Aug. 1-8 in Craig, Colo.

Moffat County's strong agricultural heritage is showcased at a variety of traditional events such as livestock and produce exhibits, while there's always fun to be had at some non-traditional events such as a disc golf tournament or miniature bull riding for children.

"This is a time for the local community," said Carol Haskins, one of the fair coordinators. "It's the only time some people see each other all year."

Moffat County, of course, is still home to wide open spaces and far-flung ranches. Agriculture remains an important aspect of the community and the economy. The fair, said Haskins, "promotes our agricultural heritage."

It's also a time for learning. Primary sponsors of fair activities are 4-H organizations and Future Farmers of America. By entering events such as livestock shows or cooking events, children learn valuable life skills. The events give adults the chance to showcase their skills and accomplishments in the mechanical, industrial, horticulture, home economics and livestock industries.

The first Moffat County Fair was held in Maybell in 1918 and reportedly was attended by almost the entire community. The Street Mine sponsored a surprise parade and brought in the Craig band to perform.

Huge tents were put up to house the displays of local crops. Babies, it was said, were among the biggest crops that year. The fair moved to its present site in 1922 and has been an annual event since.

Contests at this year's fair range from traditional roping contests and a bronco busting to fun-filled zany events such as lawnmower races, turkey bowling, catch-a-pig and even a wiener dog race.

Musical entertainment will be provided by the Ackerman's Blue Grass Band and ZIV from Los Angeles.

The Moffat County Fair schedule is extensive with multiple events scheduled every day of the week.

For detailed information, visit moffatcountyfair.com.

Owl Creek Pass

Nickel Features — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:45:00 -0600

Owl Creek Pass is a real hoot.

This circle drive is close and offers the kind of scenery generally only found on calendars and in coffee table photography books.

Travel south from Grand Junction to Montrose. Continue south toward Ridgeway. At Ridgeway State Park look for signs to Silver Jack Reservoir. This is Owl Creek Pass, an unpaved drive well worth a few washboards. A passenger car is suitable for this well-maintained dirt road.

It's 13 miles to the top of Owl Creek Pass, but expect the drive to be at least 30 minutes if not longer. The road is narrow, not completely devoid of traffic, and beautiful enough to provoke sudden stops for gazing or picture taking.

Scenic highlights on the west side of Owl Creek Pass are dominated by Courthouse Mountain (12,152 feet). Chimney Rock, on the ridge leading to Courthouse Mountain, puts one in mind of Wyoming's Devil's Tower as it looms lonely and foreboding over the Owl Creek Drainage.

Peaks up the West Fork drainage, just beyond the Owl Creek Pass summit include Dunsinane Mountain (12,724), Precipice Peak (13,144), and Redcliff (13,642), but they rarely come in to view. Coxcomb Peak (13,656 feet) lurks farther up the West Fork Road, which is clearly marked just below the summit of Owl Creek Pass on the east side.

For campers, several pull-outs can be found to enjoy a night or longer. More camping can be found up the West Fork road.

Once over the summit, motorists are heading down into the Cimarron Valley. Look for roads that travel south up the Middle Fork and East Fork drainages. Both offer unsurpassed Colorado scenery and lead to the Uncompahgre Wilderness area, home of fourteeners Uncompahgre Peak (14,309) and spectacular Wetterhorn Peak (14,015). It is possible to hike back to the high peaks, but at 14 miles, it's easier to access these mountains from the Lake City side of the wilderness area.

Still, the hiking is terrific, for those who want a leg-stretcher.

Once back in the car, pick up the primary road down to Silver Jack Reservoir.

Silver Jack boasts a large and generally uncrowded U.S. Forest Service campground. Just below Silver Jack is Beaver Lake, which also has a campground.

Below Beaver Lake is a long expanse of open ranch land and mountain vacation homes scattered throughout the Cimarron Valley.

Continue north to U.S. Highway 50. A right turn leads to Blue Mesa Reservoir, a left turn leads back to Montrose. This is also the access to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

At Montrose, this short, sweet loop drive is complete.

Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument

D.B. Cooper — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:20:00 -0600

Last month in Our Backyard we took a slightly bumpy ride down Hole-in-the-Rock Road (HRR) as part of our tour of Utah's Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument.

While there are many interesting options along HRR, there's a lot more to see in Escalante Country. Join us once again for a sampling of the other enticements this previously little-known area has to offer.

Take natural arches, bridges and windows, for example. In the first category (in addition to the previously mentioned Steven and Metate, and many without names) there are such attractions as Boynton (a.k.a. Bowington), Broken Bow, Carrot-top, Cedar Wash, Cobra, Horizon, Keyhole, Saddle, Sam Pollack, Starlight, Sunset, Wagon Box, Window, Wind, Woolsey, Jacob Hamlin (quite large), Phipps (even larger), Laminite (larger still, and quite unusual) and Grosvenor (which takes my award for most photogenic of the lot. Details in a moment.)

Natural bridges include Maverick, Coyote, Escalante (quite large), one in Dave's Canyon, the matched pair in Peek-A-Boo Canyon featured last month, and a bunch of others without formal names. There also are numerous windows scattered around. Escalante resident Jens Munthe has located 630 rocks with measurable holes in them. His books on the subject are available at P.O. Box 80 in Escalante, Utah, 84726.

Kodachrome Basin State Park is directly adjacent to the monument, and more than worth the trip should you find spectacular red rock formations of any interest. Camping is available in Kodachrome.

A park within the monument is Escalante State Park, which features a fine collection of petrified wood along a brief nature trail. It sits just west of the town of Escalante.

Also within the monument's boundaries is one of the many Cottonwood Canyons. I can think of four others in Utah, but this one is very special. It runs almost due north and south, flanked by Cockscomb on the east and Hackberry Canyon on the west. Stuffed with stunning, otherworldly scenery, this place easily surpasses its like-named competition, while seeing comparatively little traffic.

If you have the good fortune to travel this particular byway (under dry conditions only, please) consider doing it both ways. I've never seen a single road that had so many different looks, depending on which direction you drive or the time of day.

The Cottonwood Canyon road can be reached from the south by turning north off Utah Highway 89 at a point 46.7 miles east of Kanab, or 10.6 miles west of Big Water on the same road. To reach it from the north, Take Kodachrome Basin State Park road south, then east from Cannonville, continuing east beyond the well-marked turn into Kodachrome. It's almost 10 miles of decent dirt road to the top of Cottonwood Canyon.

Looking in the right place at the right time, you'll find a charming slot canyon that nearly parallels the road for some distance just to the west. In the past there have been cairns to simplify access to the slot, but lately they have been removed.

At the top of Cottonwood Canyon, there's a turn east. Slightly more than one mile on this road is my personal favorite in the Magnificent Arch Sweepstake: Grosvenor Arch, named for Gilbert Grosvenor, founder of National Geographic magazine and the man who sponsored the expedition that found the arch.

The sun doesn't properly illuminate this double-arch masterpiece of nature until midday, at best, making this a fabulous late afternoon photo opportunity. There are now picnic tables and pit toilets there, thanks to the ubiquitous BLM.

A portion of the Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument that has long been administered by that same BLM is Calf Creek Recreation Area. The entrance to this true wonderland is at the bottom of the hill between Escalante and Boulder, Utah, along Utah Highway 12, some 16 miles east of Escalante and 11 miles south of Boulder between mile posts 75 and 76. There are a smattering of picnic and camp sites along Lower Calf Creek and, most importantly, a trailhead.

The walk to lower Calf Creek Falls is slightly less than three miles. This is a delightful and highly photogenic moderate, up-canyon walk with a lovely pool and stunning falls at the end. For sunlight on the falls, this needs to be shot in the mid to late morning, depending on the time of year.

There's also an Upper Calf Creek Falls, but fair warning, it is not a Sunday stroll. The walk is shorter than to the lower falls, but a lot more physical. To get there, take Utah Highway 12 north from the recreation area entrance and turn left at the second dirt road on the left (west) after mile post 81. Look for a white splash on an otherwise dark rock. Enter to the left of the rock, complete a short drive and start walking. It may not be far on the way down, but it's more than far enough coming back up a very steep hill.

For those who prefer their explorations by auto, Escalante Country offers a number of splendid experiences. Not the least of those is a stunning route called Hell's Backbone Road. One end of this 38-mile adventure starts just east of downtown Escalante and the other is a couple of miles southwest of the village of Boulder. Along the way it loops to the north of the Death Hollow Wilderness Area and, at its top, travels across the wildest looking country imaginable. When conditions are clear and dry, the road is easily passable for most vehicles. When spring showers or early winter snows have visited the area, this route should be studiously avoided. It is closed in winter, and rightfully so.

The high point - quite literally - of the drive is the bridge that crosses the Backbone some 14 miles in from the Boulder (east) entrance. The most difficult decision to be made from here is which way to look first.

At least two spurs jut off the loop-like road, each to campgrounds. Posey Lake and Blue Spruce are both well-maintained United States Forest Service facilities. A one-mile trail begins at campsite 14 at Posey, climbing some 400 feet to an abandoned fire lookout with fine views of the area.

Another outstanding drive heads east out of Boulder toward Waterpocket Fold and Capitol Reef National Park, which is the eastern border of the monument. That road, the Burr Trail, passes through some truly impressive country before reaching Capitol Reef's western border. A number of dirt roads intersect the Burr along the way, giving those who want to try some exploring away from the growing crowds a place to do so.

The Burr Trail travels some eight miles up the length of Long Canyon, a very photogenic experience.

The list of places to visit in Escalante Country goes on and on, but space for this article does not.

In conclusion, here are three other places that bear mentioning. The town of Escalante has some interesting and rather old buildings, including an in-progress structure I call Hodge Podge Lodge. A walk through the residential part of town also is apt to turn up a surprise or two.

In the town of Boulder, Utah, the Anasazi Indian Village State Historical Monument offers a look back in time to the earliest settlers in that part of the world. The park's ruins represent the highest altitude at which remains of the Puebloan Culture have been found.

And finally, there's an old movie set called Paria. The dirt road leading to it - in just five very pretty miles - is 13 miles west of the south entrance into Cottonwood Canyon along Utah Highway 89. The set was built for a film called Sergeants Three, starring Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., and friends. The terrain to the east of the set as you enter is magnificent.

All told, there's a great deal to see and do in Escalante Country, and it's practically in our backyard.

Garden of the Gods

Debra Dobbins — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:15:00 -0600

In the past 100 years, there have been thousands of splendid days and most likely millions of photographs in one unique retreat. This year marks a century of enjoyment of an extraordinary gift made to Colorado Springs, Colo., the Garden of the Gods.

In 1909 the children of railroad tycoon Charles Elliott Perkins donated 480 acres of his land to Colorado Springs. Perkins owned the Burlington Railroad in the late 1800s and was a good friend of General William Jackson Palmer. Founder of Colorado Springs, Palmer had urged Perkins to buy the land. Perkins reputedly snapped up the first 240 acres of land for $22 an acre.

It wasn't just any land. It contained a multitude of imposing sandstone formations rising up from lush meadowland, and it was home to an array of wildlife ranging from rabbits to rattlers.

Perkins' children took care to see that their father's wishes would be carried out to their best potential. They required that the City of Colorado Springs sign an agreement stipulating that the land should remain free to the public. The agreement also mandated the park be a place "where no intoxicating liquors shall be manufactured, sold, or dispensed, where no building or structure shall be erected except those necessary to properly care for, protect, and maintain the area as a public park."

Some buildings have come and gone since then, but, of course, the stately spires and rock formations have endured through the years. Just as folks did a century ago, visitors today can see famous rock formations such as the Kissing Camels, Siamese Twins and Balanced Rock. Carved out by the forces of nature, many of these red sandstone rock formations are more than 300 million years old.

Visitors often come to the garden for a respite from hectic lives. They may drive through the park (now comprising 1,350 acres), hike its trails or even go on horseback rides. Its 15 miles of trails offer plenty of exploration.

Those who prefer a short hike have a number of trails from which to choose. The first, the Perkins Central Garden Trail, comes shortly after driving into the park. Just off the main parking lot, the trail's concrete footpath creates an easy, 1.5-mile roundtrip on nearly flat surfaces much of the way.

Visitors with wheelchairs and/or strollers will find this trail easy to navigate. It loops through the heart of the park at the base of the highest rock formations.

Those who want to be more among the rocks should try the Ridge Trail, a moderate, half-mile loop, which rises less than one hundred feet..

Still another easy trail is the Siamese Twins Trail, which is just one mile roundtrip with a rise of fewer than 150 feet. The natural window created by the twins offers an unusual view of Pikes Peak.

A bit steeper is the Chambers/Bretag/Palmer Trail. Rising nearly 250 feet, it is a three-mile circle that nearly takes in the entire park. It's great for getting away from traffic, and it has rocky terrain.

Scotsman/Buckskin Charlie Trail is a moderate trail that loops through the Park. Hikers can enjoy the distant views of the Central Garden formations from these rolling, rocky trails.

For a complete list of trails in the park, visit the Garden of the Gods Visitor & Nature Center to pick up a map. There, it is worthwhile to take in a 12-minute multi-media presentation on the history of the red rocks.

No visit to the center is complete without seeing its famous case of mistaken identity.

In 1878 a fossil skull was found in one of the ridges in the garden. A dinosaur collector from Yale University, O.C. March, identified the skull as belonging to a Camptosaurus and sent it to the Yale Peabody Museum. It sat there for more than 90 years.

In 1997 the skull was given to Colorado Springs and exhibited at the Garden of the Gods. Shortly before that, though, Dr. Ken Carpenter noted irregularities in it, and he resolved to look into them when his schedule permitted.

Dr. Carpenter must have been extremely busy, because it was not until 2006 that an associate and he reassessed the fossil skull and decided it differed from other Camptosaurus skulls, such as in the shape and length of its snout.

They determined the dinosaur skull was actually a completely new genus and species - Theiophytalia kerri. In 2008 it was reintroduced by its proper name. It is considered the only fossil of its type in the world.

The Garden of the Gods is a registered national landmark. To reach it, take exit 146 off I-25 in Colorado Springs and follow the Garden of the Gods Road. For opening hours and other information, see www.gardenofgods.com.

Music in the Mountains

Nickel Features — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:10:00 -0600

The dust from Country Jam will barely settle before July's music scene starts dusting up something for everyone's tastes all over western Colorado.

On July 1 Carbon Leaf appears as part of the Sunset Concert Series in Telluride. (The series' free concerts start at 6 p.m. each Wednesday at Sunset Plaza in Mountain Village.)

The following night catch the Centennial Band as it performs concert band classics at 7:30 p.m., Thursday, July 2, at Fruita's Civic Center.

Grace Potter and the Nocturnals kick off the Fourth of July weekend at Telluride. They'll appear from 4 to 6 p.m. Friday, July 3, at Sunset Plaza.

Wednesday, July 8, hook up with John Lee Hooker, Jr., again at Sunset Plaza. An accomplished blues musician, he is the son of the legendary Johnny Lee Hooker. Count on him to play some hits from his Grammy-nominated album, All Odds Against Me.

Back in Fruita, the following night Hard Promises plays at 7:30 p.m. as part of the 2009 Thursday Night Summer Concert Series. They bill themselves as a Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers tribute band.

Want something more traditional? Head to the Grand Mesa Shelter at Longs Family Memorial Park right by Central High School to hear the Centennial Band. At 7:30 p.m. it will deliver marches, classics, patriotic songs and other crowd-pleasers.

Run over to Rifle Friday, July 10, to take in the Midnight Sun Music Festival. It features Skid Row, Kahuna Beach Party and Unwritten Law.

Or, head south to Telluride on Saturday, July 11, for George Clinton, founder of two bands in the '70's, Parliament and Funkadelic. A doo-wop singer in the '50's who hailed first from North Carolina and then New Jersey, Clinton is bound to bring some fantastic R&B to Colorado.

Also on July 11 Quemando, a popular Latin band, performs a benefit concert for the Child & Migrant Services at Grande River Vineyards in Palisade. Gates open at 6:30 p.m. and the concert begins at 7:30 p.m.

Round out the weekend Sunday, July 12, at Grande River by taking in the Boys of Summer, a Don Henley/Eagles tribute band. Gates open at 3 p.m., and the concert begins an hour later.

Give yourself a three-day breather before enjoying The Iguanas at 7:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 15, at the James M. Robb Colorado River State Park. (If you didn't score tickets, start calling your family and friends to shake loose some extra ones!)

The next night, Fruita's Civic Pavilion is taken over by Hamilton Loomis, whose artistry in rock, soul and blues is well-known to Western Slope fans. He'll appear at 7:30 p.m. at Fruita's Civic Pavilion.

The Centennial Band continues its tradition of offering all-American favorites in various parks in Grand Junction with a 7:30 p.m. performance at Spring Valley Park off 27 1/2 Road and Patterson on July 16.

The following Tuesday, July 21, Bryan Savage, a saxophonist from Glenwood Springs, continues the Jazz Among the Grapevines Series at Two Rivers Winery. The concert, priced at $10, will benefit the Western Colorado Center for the Arts. Tickets are available at Two Rivers Winery, City Market, the Art Center or at the gate the night of the performance.

Texas native James McMurtry gets a chance to experience the mountain-town ambience of Telluride Wednesday, July 22 by playing 6-8 p.m. in the Sunset Concert Series. Concert-goers get a chance to hear McMurtry's astute musical observations on the human condition before his band and he head to Europe in the fall. ("We Can't Make it Here," his diatribe against social injustice, has been seen more than 150,000 times on YouTube.)

The fourth Thursday of the month, July 23, brings Pineapple Crackers, a local reggae, Hawaiian and rock group, to the stage at the Fruita Pavilion. (They were the musicians who entertained the crowd early on at the Sarah Palin rally last fall.)

At 7:30 that same night the Centennial Band brings its unique sounds to the Mesa County Fairgrounds.

Scott Betts and Hot Tubb Jazz will polish Palisade's reputation as a mecca for both wine and music by performing at the Wine Country Inn Friday, July 24.

The next night, Saturday, July 25, relive your youth with the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, still performing together after 40+ years. Catch them at the Avalon Theatre. Tickets are $35 and are available at City Market and Tickets West. Or call 243-TIXS.

Wednesday, July 29, guitarist and vocalist Coco Montoya puts on a blues-rock performance befitting of the legendary town he'll play in-where else but Telluride?

The next night Desert Moon, a local country band who also belts out some southern rock, plays in the Fruita Summer Concert Series at the Fruita Pavilion.

Thursday, July 30, is also the night that Firefall finishes up the Colorado Riverfront Series with a performance beginning at 7:30 p.m. Start humming "You are the Woman" now to remember the words; they're sure to play it, and who wouldn't want to sing along with one of Colorado's most beloved bands?

Meeker's Range Call Rides Again July 4

Nickel Features — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:05:00 -0600

Meeker's Range Call Celebration has evolved over its 124-year history to become much more than the "Oldest Annual Rodeo" in Colorado.

A full, four-day agenda of activities offers something for everyone.

The festivities begin Thursday evening, July 2, with the annual Meeker Massacre Pageant. Pre-pageant entertainment begins at 8 p.m., the pageant starts at dusk.

Friday, July 3, starts with the Art Display and Silent Auction opening at 9 a.m., followed by Brown's Carnival at 10 a.m. These two events are ongoing throughout the day. Rodeo action begins at 5 p.m. with entertainment by the Meeker Drill Team.

Friday's rodeo is followed by the Big Kahuna Beach Party at 7:30 p.m. and national recording artist Tracy Lawrence performing at 9 p.m. A barn dance with music by the Rock Creek Band follows the concert.

Saturday, July 4 starts early with the Run For Your Life 5K walk and run. Registration starts at 6:30 a.m. Contact the recreation district, 970-878-3403 for more information.

Hungry runners will want to take part in the Pancake Breakfast sponsored by the Rio Blanco Masonic Temple Association from 7 to 9 a.m. The breakfast is on the courthouse lawn.

The annual July 4 parade begins at 10 a.m. Following the parade are a host of events including a BBQ and all the fixin's on the courthouse lawn. A watermelon eating contest augments the eating action.

On Saturday, don't miss the annual re-enactment of the Meeker bank robbery, which begins at 1:30 p.m. An archery tournament begins at 3 p.m. on the high school football field. Rodeo action begins again at 7 p.m. followed by a fireworks display at dark. A barn dance with the Rock Creek Band follows the fireworks.

Rodeo action continues on Sunday at the fairgrounds at 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. The annual Ranch Rodeo begins at 11 a.m.

Shock and Awe

Debra Dobbins — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:40:00 -0600

“If the baby moves out of the way,” she whispered, “I’ll take the shot.” Moments later, she fired.

Mystery Paint heard the crack of the gun and felt a sting. She spun around and fled with her foal and the rest of her band. On a sunny May morning the wild mare had just been put on birth control for an entire year, thanks to the steady aim of Marty Felix.

A Bureau of Land Management volunteer, Felix regularly treks to the Little Bookcliffs Wild Horse Refuge to help manage the size of about 30 bands of mustangs that roam its 36,113 acres. Her mission is to locate some of the females and dart them with a dose of a horse contraceptive called porcine zona pellucida immunocontraceptive, or PZP.

“It’s like getting a flu shot,” she said, agreeing that a mare probably feels it has been stung by a bee. Felix, who received special training for this work, is in her eighth year of darting; she has shot about 70 doses of the contraceptive from distances as far as 50 yards.

Felix explained that our local BLM has adopted this approach to reduce the number of gathers. During gathers BLM employees are assisted by members of Friends of the Mustangs (FOM), a group that Felix helped to organize to maintain the welfare of these iconic creatures. Among many other jobs, members help the BLM round up some of the horses, get them into trailers (no small task) and take them to Grand Junction to be put up for adoption.

Gathers, however, are expensive. Also, more and more people these days can’t afford to care for a horse, so vaccinating mares is the preferred way to keep population to an appropriate management level. Mustangs then stand a much better of chance of surviving, even thriving, in wilderness that encompasses rugged canyons, sage fields and pinyon-juniper forests.

Despite population control, an amazing variety of horses roam wild and free on the Bookcliffs: roans, paints, blacks, bays, grays, grullas, palominos, sorrels, buckskins and even five appaloosas. They run either in harem bands, with a stallion, his mares and their foals, or in bachelor bands, usually stallions too young to establish dominancy over other studs. The BLM has, on occasion, introduced horses from other ranges to keep a healthy mix of bloodlines.

To see these magnificent creatures, rely on four good wheels and two sturdy feet. Four-wheel drive vehicles make the rugged roads in the Bookcliffs much easier to traverse, but if you spot a band of horses, park and get out. Then use your own horsepower to hike close to the band. Take binoculars, because the horses often keep their distance. Maintaining a respectful silence may help you get closer. A FOM brochure lists some helpful tips for visitors to the Bookcliffs. Its statement that roads tend to be impassable in bad weather should be considered the gospel truth. They often develop deep ruts over the winter and early spring. Until graded, they can put even experienced four-wheel drivers to the test, especially after a rain. According to the BLM, the Dry Fork and Winter Flats routes are considered 4x4 roads all year long.

FOM advises taking a map (available from the BLM), a jacket, food and water. The jacket may seem unnecessary on a hot summer day, but if for any reason you cannot get out of the area by day’s end, it can be a godsend during a long night. A full gallon of water per person is not too much.

FOM also recommends that you tell someone where you are going and when you think you will return, especially since cell phones may not always work. If you buy an inexpensive Rescue Card from the Division of Wildlife, you won’t incur a charge if you need to be rescued.

To view the horses in the summer, head to the Indian Park or North Soda areas. These may be accessed by taking the DeBeque/Winter Flats Road entrance. The horses come down to lower elevations during the winter, so try Coal Canyon or Main Canyon (accessed by taking Exit 46 by the Cameo Power Plant) from November through May.

For better luck, hit the trails early in the day, because the mustangs head for the shade – and seclusion – of trees as it gets hotter.

Even without spotting many horses, hiking in the refuge has its rewards. Wild flowers such as Indian Paintbrush abound. Grand Mesa towers in the south, and rock formations such as the Goblins are well worth a look.

Felix joked that visitors should go to a remote area called Monument Rock if they don’t want to see horses. Even though it’s a mustang mecca, “they are as wild as March hares.” At the first sight of intruders they head for the trees, she said.

“It keeps a sense of mystery, though,” she added. “We get frustrated when we don’t see many of our Monument Rock horses, but it keeps it interesting.”

Felix is so well recognized for her captivating photography of and meticulous notes on these animals that she is known as the “Wild Horse Lady.” After documenting them for more than three decades, Felix speaks of them all as members of her extended family. She knows nearly every one of the 120 mustangs now on the range by name, and she can reel off their grandparents, mamas, papas, brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles and cousins with amazing rapidity.

“After 36 years, it’s still a thrill to see these horses,” she said while mixing up another contraceptive cocktail and injecting it into a dart. Then she slung the gun over her shoulder and set off to surprise yet another mare.

For information on trails in the Bookcliffs, log on to:

www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/gjfo/recreation/littlebookcliffwha.html.

For more on Friends of the Mustangs, go to www.friendsofthemustangs.org.

Music in the Mountains

Nickel Features — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:40:00 -0600

So many bands, only four weekends in June! Fortunately, you can also find at least one concert every Thursday night this month in the Grand Valley.

Better yet, June boasts two major music events on two weekends in the Grand Valley, the Palisade Bluegrass Festival and Country Jam. Telluride ponies up both its annual jazz celebration and bluegrass festival, so there’s no excuse this month to find just the music you crave.

On June 4 head to Fruita’s Civic Center Pavilion at 7:30 p.m. to catch Hit Squad, whose performance opens up the 2009 Thursday Night Summer Concert Series. An eight-piece rock band, Hit Squad provides plenty of nostalgia for Baby Boomers with hits from the 60s, 70s and 80s.

The Telluride Jazz Celebration swings into action on June 5 and runs through June 7. Catch Bill Frisell, Kenny Walker, Lizz Wright, Ozomatli and others in Town Park.

The following Thursday, June 11, Flat Top Reed, a rockin’ blues/alternative country band, takes over Fruita’s pavilion. The show starts at 7:30 p.m., the time for all pavilion concerts in June.

Or, if you’ve scored some tickets, step lively that night to The Young Dubliners, Celtic rockers who are kicking off the Colorado Riverfront Concert Series at the James M. Robb Colorado River State Park. The show begins at 7:30 p.m.

Shift into classical mode the next night, June 12, by taking in an evening of ballet and chamber music performed at the Avalon by the Southwest Ballet Theater and the Western Slope Chamber Music Series. Dancers from the acclaimed Eugene Ballet Company will perform, and chamber music will include the Brahms Sextet in B-flat and “Souvenir de Florence” by Tchaikovsky.

Tyme and Kathryn Mientka will be featured on cello and piano, along with harpist Janet Harriman. This show also starts at 7:30 p.m. Purchase tickets at Roper Music in Grand Junction or Over the Edge Sports in Fruita..

Or, sit back and enjoy some bluegrass at the Palisade Bluegrass and Roots Festival Friday, June 12, through Sunday, June 14, at Riverbend Park. The festival, which was previously held in Hotchkiss, reels out three days of top-notch bluegrass. Bands include Cadillac Sky, Kane, Welch & Kaplin, The April Verch Band, The Kruger Brothers, The Dixie Bee-Liners, Mollie O’Brien, Danny Barnes, Moira Smiley & VOCO, Catfish Keith, Dakota Blonde, Cartharsis and Way Down Yonder.

Can’t make it to Palisade? Indulge your musical appetite by taking in the Influx jazz concert from 6-9 p.m. Saturday, June 13 at the Botanical Gardens.

On Tuesday, June 16, the Two Rivers Winery provides the backdrop for Alternate Route, a band that promises bluegrass, newgrass, gospel, country and more. All proceeds benefit the Western Colorado Center for the Arts. The band will play from 7 p.m. to dusk.

Just two days later the third Thursday concert at the Fruita Pavilion features Russ Chapman. Chapman plays early swing, pre-war blues and New Orleans swamp music.

With tunes from the Palisade Bluegrass Festival still fresh in your memory, buzz up to the mountains for the Telluride Bluegrass Festival June 18-21. For more information, try www.bluegrass.com.telluride.

Grande River Vineyards hosts King n’ Trio at 7:30 p.m., Saturday, June 20. Gates open at 6:30 p.m. This concert will benefit the Red Cross. Tickets are $15 at Roper Music, Fisher’s Liquor Barn and The Muse in Fruita, or $20 at the door. Kids 12 and under are free. Families are welcome.

Singing for another good cause is Peter Kartsounes at 6:30 p.m. June 23. His special cause is the Hike for Cancer. Reservations are required and tickets are $15. Kartsounes will play in the tranquil backyard of Willow Pond Bed and Breakfast.

The Dead Cowboyz perform at the Fruita Pavilion on June 25, offering classic rock dance tunes, with a special performance by Fruita’s own Liberty Cheer Program.

At 7 p.m. that night the Centennial Band will treat music lovers at the Atrium to a wide variety of classics, modern composers, traditional marches, patriotic songs and new sounds.

June’s final musical hurrah is the Grand Valley Hyundai Country Jam June 25-28. On Thursday Pat Green takes the stage at 7:15 p.m., followed by Sawyer Brown at 9:30 p.m. Brown is sure to live up to his song “Step That Step” by leaving Country Jam fans “sittin’ on the edge of their seat.”

Jason Aldean fires up the crowd at 7:15 p.m. Friday and at 9:30 p.m. Big & Rich finish off the night.

Saturday, Clay Walker is on at 7:15 p.m., leading up to Randy Owen at 9:30 p.m. Owen, the former singer of the country music group Alabama, will undoubtedly reward the crowd with some of Alabama’s award-winning hits, along with his own songs, such as “One by One,” “Holding Everything” and “Barbados.”

Sunday’s sure to satisfy fans with performances by Blake Shelton at 6:30 p.m. and Montgomery Gentry at 8:30 p.m.

To get the lowdown on the full line-up of Country Jam, check out:

http://countryjamgjco.countryjam.com.

Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument

D.B. Cooper — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:40:00 -0600

While the Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument was created a decade ago, its name is still quite confusing to many first time visitors.

Many ask where the staircase is and are amazed to learn they are already on its fifth or seventh step. In fact, the “Staircase” is a vast area, consuming a good deal of southwestern Utah and some of northern Arizona in at least seven “steps.”

Starting from the bottom: the Paria Plateau (above the Colorado River), the Buckskin Mountains, the Chocolate Cliffs, the Vermillion Cliffs, the White Cliffs, the Gray Cliffs, the Skutumpah Terrace, the Pink Cliffs, and the Pausaugunt Plateau, home to Bryce Canyon National Park.

The 9.3 million acres of national monument includes natural bridges and arches of stylish beauty and often prodigious size, slot canyons that beckon then box out, countless square miles of moonscape terrain, the complex and often trackless Escalante River drainage, and one of the loveliest waterfalls imaginable. And that’s just the moderately well-known stuff.

The town of Escalante – with about 1,000 souls – is in the heart of the vast acreage and supplies the needs of visitors quite well. Restaurants (the Cowboy Blues Café being the most dependable), motels (the Prospector clearly the best) and hiking/camping gear (at the Escalante Outfitters) are all available year round.

While summer can be unbearably hot, spring and fall are generally wonderful times there. Winter is anywhere from perfect to perfectly horrible.

The primary route into the heart of the monument is called Hole-in-the-Rock Road (HRR). This dirt and gravel road leaves the area’s sole highway – Utah Highway 12 – five miles to the southeast of the town of Escalante. It is well graded and usually well maintained (not counting the occasional scrubboard) as far as Dance Hall Rock.

From that point on it deteriorates rapidly. HRR travels in a southeasterly direction for just over fifty miles, ending rather abruptly at an historical – and totally unbelievable – place called Hole-in-the-Rock. For more on that, check out the legends of the early Mormon travels and travails in southern Utah.

Along the way, HRR passes a couple of day’s worth of explorable country, with smaller, poorer access roads leading off into remarkable wildlands. Following is a tip-of-the-iceberg sampling.

Twelve miles in, there’s a right turn off of HRR. It is usually marked, but that can change in a heartbeat. In two-tenths of a mile of currently marginal dirt two-track, the side road ends and the fun begins. There’s a parking area, a couple of pit toilets and a place called the Devil’s Garden. Heard the name before? Sure. There’s a large economy size version in Arches National Park. But, this is the sub-compact model. Instead of a couple of square miles this garden has a mere few acres. Not to worry, it’s still very worth the trip. There are a pair of arches, one called Metate, the other, to the best of my knowledge, is unnamed. A liberal sprinkling of small windows and a Henry Moore-inspired assortment of outlandish sandstone formations make this a great early morning or late afternoon photo opportunity. My favorite formation in the garden I’ve named the Hippo Ballet. Should you see it, I think you’ll know it.

At about 28 miles down HRR, there’s a signed left turn to the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch. Almost two miles of winding dirt track leads to an informal parking area and the trailhead. After a substantial downhill, a short, straight, sandy track leads to the gulch. A left turn at that point takes you directly into The Narrows, an easy and attractive walk.

Directly across from the entrance into the Dry Fork is Peek-a-boo Gulch, which in addition to being one of the neatest places I know, includes a matched pair of natural bridges. The entrance into the Peek-a-boo from the Dry Fork is quite challenging, but a short walk up a hill to its left leads to a much easier access.

One half mile to the right down Dry Fork, is the entrance into Spooky Gulch on the left. Spooky is a slot canyon that eventually gets too narrow to navigate. And it lives up to its name.

Another three quarters of a mile down Dry Gulch, also on the left, is Brimstone Canyon. Strong advice: Look, but stay out! This is not a nice place, as the Salt Lake City resident who spent three days trapped in Brimstone Canyon found out.

At about 38 miles in, a left turn off the still good dirt road on Fortymile Ridge Road provides one way to see Stevens Arch. The ways to stand beneath or actually reach the arch involve very serious hiking, one – to stand beneath it – down Harris Wash and the Escalante River Canyon, the other – to stand right in it – you just don’t want to know about. Roughly four miles in from that left turn, that glorified two-track comes to an ignominious end and the time has come for a walk.

A quasi-trail leads off to the east, continuing in the direction of Fortymile. After a three quarter mile walk to the edge of a minor precipice, a little care is needed to find the (at my last visit, still) unmarked narrow natural passage to the level below. Once down, briefly follow the trail in a slightly more northeasterly direction and you’ll soon have an outstanding view of Stevens Arch.

With a base nearly 600 feet above the river, Stevens is 225 feet wide and 160 feet high making it one of the top 10 arches in the world. While Stevens is assuredly the largest arch in Escalante Country, it has lots of smaller but still impressive company.

Jens Munthe, now a resident of Escalante, has located 630 arches, bridges and windows in the vastness surrounding his adopted home. For detailed information (in the form of the books he has written on the subject), he can be reached at P.O. Box 80 in Escalante, 84726.

About forty miles down HRR is the almost well known Dance Hall Rock. Let’s rephrase that. It’s far better known by name than sight. Many have read about it in the legion legends of the Mormon’s epic journey through this forbidding land, but not all that many folks have actually seen it. Yet. The top of the rock is easily gained around to the right as you face it. The top is easily and delightfully walked, huge, and full of potholes of incredible size. Some have trees growing in them!

There is so much more to this national monument, including the lovely Lower Calf Creek Falls. Look for Part 2 of our brief descriptions of places to see in the Grand Staircase in the July issue of Our Backyard.

Build your own Colorado Scenic Byway

Nickel Features — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:40:00 -0600

Mountains, mesas and canyons. This 240-mile drive has all three, not to mention pastoral ranch land and quaint towns.

We left Grand Junction and headed south on U.S. Highway 50 to Montrose, then continued east on U.S. 50 toward Blue Mesa Reservoir.

After a long pull up Cerro Summit the hustle and bustle of city life abruptly ends. The scenery here is mostly devoid of civilization. Breath deep.

This also is Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park territory. Named a National Park in 1999, this is one of America’s youngest national parks. The park encompasses only 14 miles of Black Canyon, but they are the most spectacular. Black Canyon boasts Colorado’s highest rock face, Painted Wall at 2,250 feet. The deepest point of the canyon is at Warner Point where the canyon is 2,722 feet deep.

It should be obvious that such sights are worth the side trip.

U.S. 50 continues east into Gunnison County and blissful emptiness. When Blue Mesa Reservoir comes in to view look for the turn to Colo. Highway 92 just past Sapinero.

Colo. 92 travels across the dam for Blue Mesa Reservoir. Blue Mesa is Colorado’s largest body of water. It is 20 miles long with 96 miles of shoreline and totals 14 square miles of water. Blue Mesa is the uppermost of three consecutive reservoirs on the Gunnison River. Below are Morrow Point and Crystal. All three are part of the massive Colorado River Storage system managed by the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation.

Blue Mesa is in Curecanti National Recreation Area. Between the canyon and the lakes, this is indeed a recreation paradise. Curecanti is named for the Ute indian Curicata who roamed the area.

There’s enough to do at Blue Mesa to make an extended vacation, but we are pressing on, north up Colo. 92, which is one stretch of the West Elk Loop scenic byway.

Colo. 92 is a relatively lonely road. It first hugs the north rim of Black Canyon for about 25 miles. Three scenic overlook pullouts and picnic areas are in this first 24 miles. Take the time to at least look. The sights of Black Canyon with San Juan Mountain backdrops are breathtaking.

Hikers will want to stretch their legs on the trails found at each overlook. The hikes are fairly strenuous, but worth it.

As Colo. 92 continues north, Black Canyon is left behind and the West Elk Mountains come in to view. In this stretch are lovely ranches and farms that lend a pastoral feeling to the landscape.

The town of Crawford is the first burg to be encountered as the road makes its way down in to the North Fork Valley.

Watch for a turn to the right if you want to go to Paonia and continue on the West Elk Loop. We took the road straight to Hotchkiss, took a break to enjoy a small arts festival and music, then continued west on Colo. 92 toward Delta.

As you approach Delta, look for the turn to Cedaredge, north on Colo. 65. This begins a 63-mile journey on the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway.

Colo. 65 leaves the hot North Fork Valley and gains steady elevation until it peaks at the top of Grand Mesa at 10,839 feet.

Grand Mesa is another recreation paradise and an important supplier of water to Western Slope towns.

Nestled among the pines and aspen groves on the mesa are more than 300 ponds, lakes or reservoirs. With abundant winter snowfall, the mesa yields an impressive 180,000 acre feet of water, enough for 1.5 million people.

A National Forest Visitor Center near the top of Grand Mesa makes an excellent stop.

Proceed on Colo. 65 down the north side of Grand Mesa. Views here make an interesting contrast. Lush alpine forests now have a backdrop of the hard desert landscape of DeBeque Canyon on the Colorado River.

Powderhorn ski area maintains a gift shop open through the summer months.

Colo. 65 follows Plateau Creek down to I-70 where it is a short journey west back to Grand Junction to complete this build-your-own Colorado scenic byway.

The Dunes

Doug Freed — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:36:03 -0600

Many playgrounds have a sand pile, this playground just happens to have North America’s biggest sandpile.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve really is a playground, a place where the young and the young at heart conjure up an infinite variety of ways to play in the sand.

Some walk awestruck up, around, over and through 30-square-miles of sand dunes. Some jump off dunes, roll down dunes, scramble up and around dunes. Others bring old snowboards to ride the sand, or use a simple piece of cardboard to make a nice sand sled.

People splash in the seasonal flow of Medano Creek at the base of the dunes. They build sand castle and sand caves. They even boogie board the “surge flows” that change the character of the creek by the minute. They sunbathe and relax. They giggle. They ooh and aah.

About 300,000 people a year visit to play and have fun, because that is what people do in a playground.

One wonderful aspect of sand is its regenerative powers. Unlike other habitats, thousands of people can trample a dune and come the next breeze, all vestiges of their presence is gone. This is one reason park rangers can allow and even encourage people to frolick on the dunes. Despite seven insect species that live only on these dunes, the dunes are able to handle the impact of thousands of visitors without being damaged. Park rangers even allow pets on the dunes as long as they are on a leash 6-feet or shorter. (Pet owners be aware that the sand can reach temperatures of 140 degrees – hot enough to burn Fido’s feet.)

Congress created Great Sand Dunes National Monument in 1932 with original boundaries that protected only the sand dunes and the area immediately surrounding them.

In 1976, the Great Sand Dunes Wilderness area was established to protect the wider ecosystem of the area. In 2000 the two areas were merged to create the 150,000-acre Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Elevations of the park range from 7,515 feet to 13,604 feet. Protected within are a variety of life zones and ecosystems.

While recent legislation assures the area will be protected forever, the Dunes have long been popular. Archeological evidence suggests prehistoric tribes wandered the area 11,000 years ago.

They were followed by nomadic Indian tribes. As early as 1598, Spanish explorers had visited the area.

The first known writings of the dunes appear in the 1807 journals of U.S. Army Lt. Zebulon Pike. Pike was sent to explore the southern reaches of the Louisiana Purchase, but trespassed in Spanish territory to visit the San Luis Valley. He described the dunes as “a sea in a storm.”

Other early explorers to visit the dunes were John Fremont during his 1848 quest for a railroad route and Capt. John Gunnison of the U.S. Topographical Engineers, who crossed part of the dunefield on horseback in 1853.

Prospectors and settlers followed in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, local San Luis Valley residents led effort to have the area protected.

The dunes are undeniably the top draw of the park, but with such a diverse landscape protected there is something for everyone.

Besides climbing the two highest dunes – High Dune at 650 feet and Star Dune at 750 feet – hikers will enjoy a 3.7-mile jaunt up historic Mosca Pass, which was a primary entry point to the San Luis Valley for early settlers. Mosca Pass was originally built as a toll road in the 1870s, but is now a hiking trail.

Four-wheel-drive enthusiasts will want to try Medano Pass where soft sand, creek crossings and a rocky roadbed combine for some adventurous driving. The reward is a tremendous view.

Campers have many choices. The park offers a developed car camping campsite near the visitors center, but also four-wheel-drive access car camping along the Medano Pass road. Backpackers can find seclusion in their own campground miles from vehicle-bound visitors.

The primary car camping area in the park is first-come, first-serve. For those wanting reservations, the San Luis Lakes State Park campground about 15 minutes from the park accepts advanced reservations. www.coloradostateparks.reserveamerica.com.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is on the east side of the San Luis Valley tucked up against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Nearby are several 14,000-foot peaks including Kit Carson and Challenger Point, Crestone and Crestone Needle, Little Bear and Blanca Peaks.

Nature lovers will find several wildlife sanctuaries and refuges in San Luis Valley. They include the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge, Blanca Wetlands and Wildlife Habitat Area, San Luis Lakes State Park and Wildlife Area and Russell Lakes State Wildlife Area.

Near the park is another type of wildlife. The Colorado Gator and Reptile Park makes use of naturally warm well water to create a highly out-of-context habitat for alligators and other reptiles. Tours and photo opportunities await anyone who wants to see an alligator and a snow-capped mountain peak at the same time.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is 250 miles from Grand Junction. Expect the drive to take a minimum of 4.5 hours.

Music in the Mountains

Nickel Features — Wed, 06 May 2009 00:35:00 -0600

What’s cookin’ in Devil’s Kitchen? Judging by the Centennial Band’s plans, there’ll be a smorgasbord of musical treats served up at 5:30 p.m. on May 17 in this natural red rock ampitheater just inside the east gate of the Colorado Monument.

The band plans a concert of patriotic pieces and lighter fare that’s sure to complement anyone’s picnic supper. Director Gary Ambrosier said the concert’s pieces will include “Midway March” by John Williams and “Liberty Bell” by John Phillip Sousa. The band will pay tribute to American greats such as Duke Ellington and Aaron Copland, and singer Becky McGary will be featured in a salute to America’s armed forces.

Ambrosier added that parking at this locale will be limited to disabled access. A shuttle service for the free concert will be provided, starting at Wingate Elementary, 351 South Camp Road. The service starts at 4:30 p.m. and runs every 15 minutes until 7:30 p.m. Riding the bus armed with lawn chairs and picnic baskets is fine, he said. For more information, call 858-3617 ext. 364.

The band quickly follows this performance with a fund-raiser together with King ‘n Trio at 7:30 p.m. Thursday, May 21, at the Avalon Theatre. The evening is dedicated to raising funds for Honor Flight, which helps vets visit the National World War II Memorial in Washington, DC. While admission is free, a donation is requested.

The aforementioned concerts are not set until the third full week of the month, but there are plenty of enchanted musical evenings – and days – earlier in the month.

On Saturday, May 9, take in “Chasing Light,” a classical concert featuring works by Wagner, Schwantner and Brahms. The Albers sisters – Julie on cello and Laura on violin – return to Grand Junction to perform in the Grand Junction Symphony’s final concert of the season. It begins at 7:30 p.m. in the Grand Junction High School auditorium.

Wrapped around the Albers’ performance is the 21st annual Wells Fargo Arts and Jazz festival running May 8-10 downtown. The Central High School Jazz Band kicks things off at 4 p.m. Friday, followed by Michelle Wilkenson at 6 p.m. Dotsero, billed as the “ultimate in contemporary jazz,” caps off the evening at 8 p.m.

Saturday goes into high gear when the Grand Junction High School Jazz Band struts its stuff at noon. At 2 p.m the streets heat up with the high energy of ZARO, featuring saxophonist/composer Andrew Vogt. ZARO is followed at 4 p.m. by the Jason Runnels Trio, specializing in fusion jazz. A scant two hours later, roll back the clock with the Big Band sounds of the forties, compliments of the Western Colorado Jazz Orchestra.

Saturday’s headliner is once again the renowned Hazel Miller, who captivated her audience at last year’s event. Miller, who makes her home in Colorado, will roll into town early enough to conduct a voice class at Roper Music from 9 to 3 p.m. on Friday. She’ll then take the stage at 8 p.m.

Sunday starts with classical gospel music by Bobby Walker Gospel at 10 a.m. and continues midday with the Aakash Mittal Quartet, known for its India-inspired jazz. In a time-honored tradition, the day then mellows with Walt Smith and Friends at 2 p.m. Smith promises a little music for lovers.

Fruita has its own musical shout-out the following weekend as part of the Mike the Headless Chicken Festival, which runs May 15-17. On Friday night from 5:30 to 7 p.m. check out the R&B and funk dance band Ofay Soul. On its heels at 7:30 comes Disco Mountain, based out of Denver, with crowd-pleasing favorites such as “Celebration” and “Shining Star.”

Along with a full array of festival events on Saturday, count on everything from polka to rock to keep the day jumpin.’ The Polka Band with Joe Gable keeps toes tapping from 1:30 to 3 p.m. At 3:30 p.m. the Blue Canyon Boys take the stage. Winners of the 2008 Telluride Bluegrass festival band contest, these four musicians blend their voices with a mandolin, guitar, bass and banjo. The quartet is especially known for its brother-duet harmonies.

The Goodman Band keeps the action going from 5:30 to 7 p.m., and from 7:30 to 9 p.m. Ralph Dinosaur and the Fabulous Thunderbirds rock the western slope one more time in their 26 years of being crowd favorites.

With all these performances at hand, it’s impossible not to get out and enjoy some great entertainment. Whether you appease your musical appetite among the red rocks, in an auditorium or on the streets of Fruita and Grand Junction, there will definitely be something to appeal to your tastes in May.

Death Valley: Land of Extremes

Doug Freed — Wed, 06 May 2009 00:25:00 -0600

No where to go but up.

From Badwater Basin in Death Valley National Park this is a topographical fact.

At 282 feet below sea level, Badwater Basin is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere. It is among the many surprising discoveries one might make in this land of extremes.

Everybody knows Death Valley is low and hot, but most people don’t know Death Valley can also be high and cool. In this vast park of 3.3 million acres (twice the size of the state of Delaware) are abundant mountains.

Telescope Peak in the Panamint Mountains that tower directly over Badwater Basin, is 11,049 feet. On a recent late-March visit to Death Valley, there was still too much snow to climb Telescope Peak, but it was 90 degrees in Badwater Basin. A hike to the summit of 9,064-foot Wildrose Peak led us through a variety of life-zones as we climbed in elevation. Near the summit there was snow on the ground and wind cold enough to find us digging in packs for warmer clothes.

Only 85 miles away from Badwater Basin are California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains and Mt. Whitney, which at 14,494 feet, is the highest point in the contiguous United States.

The vast changes in elevation have a lot to do with the weather extremes famous in Death Valley.

It is those mountains to the west that capture almost all the moisture out of every storm. Death Valley, sitting in the rain shadow of the Sierras, averages only about 2 inches of rain a year.

The low elevation is partly responsible for the warm temperatures that make it one of the hottest place on earth. The record high temperature in Death Valley is 134 degrees F in July, 1913. That ranks as the second highest temperature ever record anywhere in the world, topped only by a 136-degree day record in the Sahara Desert of Libya in 1922.

Annual average temperatures rank Death Valley as the warmest place in the world. Among its long list of records is the most consecutive days with a temperature of 100 degrees or more: 154 days.

Since this is the land of extremes, the record low temperature must also be cited: 15 degrees, in January of 1913.

With the famously hot weather, it should come as no surprise that not many of the roughly 1 million annual visitors choose the summer months for a trip to Death Valley. The most popular month is March when spring break, daytime highs in the 80s and the chance for blooming wildflowers are the big draw.

Given the harshness of the area, park visitors tend to congregate in the campground areas where services are provided, but of the 3.3 million acres in the park, roughly 3 million acres are desolate wilderness. The park boasts some 600 miles of backroads, almost all of which will leave you with an immense feeling of loneliness. Some of the backroads require four-wheel-drive but most simply require the time and patience to endure mile after mile of bone-crunching washboards. In such a vast and empty land, motorists shouldn’t miss opportunities to fill the tank with gasoline. Service stations are few and far between and it’s easy to drive 100 miles or more in a typical day of exploring the park.

Constructed hiking trails are relatively rare in the park, which makes this an explorer’s dream vacation. The park welcomes visitors to just get out and walk and explore. Obviously, any wandering soul should be prepared for rough terrain and carry lots of water – one gallon a day is recommended.

Nature enthusiasts won’t find a lot of native animals to watch, although the park is home to bighorn sheep and coyotes. Kangaroo rats, rattlesnakes and spiders also are fairly common. The famed pupfish in Salt Creek are a marvel of adaptability and found only in this area.

Plant life is surprisingly varied for such a harsh climate. The park is home to more than 1,000 plant species, 23 of which are only found in Death Valley. There are 13 species of cactus in the park.

A surprising aspect to this National Park are the number of abandoned mines. The California gold rush of 1849 left Death Valley crawling with prospectors and miners. Not much gold and silver was produced there, but left behind are between 6,000 and 10,000 abandoned mines. Ghost towns dot the backcountry.

Among other works of man in the park is a golf course at Furnace Creek Ranch. Built long before Death Valley became a national park in 1994, the Furnace Creek Golf Course is not only the world’s lowest golf course at 214 feet below sea level, it also is the only golf course in a national park.

Furnace Creek is near the low point of Death Valley surrounded by salt flats. The contrast of the harsh desert and the lush, palm tree-lined fairways of the golf course represents an enormous incongruity.

Following is a list of sites recommended by the Park Service. Access is relatively good to most of these areas.

Golden Canyon. Hikers entering the narrows of this canyon are greeted by golden badlands. The walk is two miles.
Artist’s Drive. This is a scenic loop drive through colorful volcanic and sedimentary hills. Artist’s Palette is especially photogenic in late afternoon light. This is a 9-mile, paved, one-way road. No vehicles more than 25 feet long.
Devil’s Golf Course. An immense area of rock salt eroded into jagged shapes.
Natural Bridge. A massive rock span across a narrow desert canyon. The access road is gravel and often rough. From the trailhead, it’s a one-half mile walk to the bridge.
Badwater. The lowest point. From the parking area is a vast salt flat. You can walk as far as you want (it’s five miles across), but you won’t want to walk very far if it’s hot.
Zabriskie Point. Surrounded by a maze of wildly eroded and vibrantly colored badlands, the view is one of the park’s most famous. It is particularly popular at sunrise and sunset.
Twenty Mule Team Canyon. Winding through badlands, this 2.7-mile, one-way loop drive is unpaved but suitable for all vehicles other than buses, RVs and trailers.
Dante’s View. the most breathtaking viewpoint in the park that can be accessed by vehicle. This mountain-top overlook is more than 5,000 feet above the inferno of Death Valley. The paved access road is open to all vehicles less than 25 feet in length.
Sand Dunes. The sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells rise 100 feet above Mesquite Flat. Late afternoon light softens the harsh landscape and makes for excellent photographs.
Mosaic Canyon. This short, narrow canyon boasts polished marble walls and mosaic patterns of breccia. A little rock scrambling is required in the slot-like lower half mile.
Salt Creek. This salty stream is home to the ultra-rare pupfish, which have adapted to an increasingly salty environment and are only found in Death Valley.
Titus Canyon. A 26-mile, one-way road winds through this long, narrow canyon and represents one spectacular way to enter the park from Nevada. In this canyon are lofty walls, multi-colored volcanic deposits, a mining ghost town, petroglyphs, bighorn sheep and winding narrows. A high-clearance vehicle may be needed.
Father Crowley Vista. A landscape of dark lava flows and volcanic cinders gives way to Rainbow Canyon.
Wildrose Charcoal Kilns. Ten beehive-shaped structures are almost perfectly preserved. They were built in 1876 to make charcoal for mining fuel out of the pinyon and juniper in the area. This is also the trailhead for Wildrose Peak.
Lee Flat Joshua Trees. This is the best stand of tree-sized yucca plants in the park.
Aguereberry Point. 1,000 feet higher than Dante’s View, this overlook gives a perspective over Death Valley from the west. Along the road are the remains of Pete Aguereberry’s camp and his Eureka Mine.
Scotty’s Castle. Prospector “Death Valley Scotty” claimed this elaborate Spanish-style mansion was built by gold from his fictitious mine. In reality it was the 1920s vacation home of his wealthy friends. Park rangers offer living history tours of the castle.
Ubehebe Crater. A 600-foot crater formed 300 years ago in a volcanic eruption that buried the surrounding area in cinders. Hike around the rim of the crater or venture down inside.
Eureka Dunes. These dunes rise nearly 700 feet and are the highest sand dunes in California. Isolated from other dunes, they are an evolutionary island, home to rare and endangered species of plants and animals.
The Race Track. It’s worth the effort to drive the rough, 27-mile road to this dry lakebed where rocks mysteriously move, leaving behind long tracks for visitors to ponder.
Mosaic Canyon. This short, narrow canyon boasts polished marble walls and mosaic patterns of breccia. A little rock scrambling is required in the slot-like lower half mile.
Salt Creek. This salty stream is home to the ultra-rare pupfish, which have adapted to an increasingly salty environment and are only found in Death Valley.
Titus Canyon. A 26-mile, one-way road winds through this long, narrow canyon and represents one spectacular way to enter the park from Nevada. In this canyon are lofty walls, multi-colored volcanic deposits, a mining ghost town, petroglyphs, bighorn sheep and winding narrows. A high-clearance vehicle may be needed.
Father Crowley Vista. A landscape of dark lava flows and volcanic cinders gives way to Rainbow Canyon.
Wildrose Charcoal Kilns. Ten beehive-shaped structures are almost perfectly preserved. They were built in 1876 to make charcoal for mining fuel out of the pinyon and juniper in the area. This is also the trailhead for Wildrose Peak.
Lee Flat Joshua Trees. This is the best stand of tree-sized yucca plants in the park.
Aguereberry Point. 1,000 feet higher than Dante’s View, this overlook gives a perspective over Death Valley from the west. Along the road are the remains of Pete Aguereberry’s camp and his Eureka Mine.
Scotty’s Castle. Prospector “Death Valley Scotty” claimed this elaborate Spanish-style mansion was built by gold from his fictitious mine. In reality it was the 1920s vacation home of his wealthy friends. Park rangers offer living history tours of the castle.
Ubehebe Crater. A 600-foot crater formed 300 years ago in a volcanic eruption that buried the surrounding area in cinders. Hike around the rim of the crater or venture down inside.
Eureka Dunes. These dunes rise nearly 700 feet and are the highest sand dunes in California. Isolated from other dunes, they are an evolutionary island, home to rare and endangered species of plants and animals.
The Race Track. It’s worth the effort to drive the rough, 27-mile road to this dry lakebed where rocks mysteriously move, leaving behind long tracks for visitors to ponder.

2009 Water Watchers Worry Free

Nickel Features — Wed, 06 May 2009 00:20:00 -0600

Holding steady.

Following a big snow year in 2007-2008 that saw Lake Powell water levels stage a big turnaround, there’s enough snow in the high country to insure the lake won’t give back the ground it made last year, and may even increase depths a bit.

The water year, which starts in October, got off to a dismal start with October and November snowpack numbers far below normal. But just as water watchers started bracing for a disappointing year, the snows started falling in December.

January and February snows were below normal but the strong December and some March snow left most Colorado basins at about the 100% of normal level for the year.

U.S. Bureau of Reclamation Forecasts call for an April to July runoff of 7.8 million acre-feet (98% of average). Based on this forecast, upstream reservoir operations and predicted Lake Powell releases, the Bureau of Reclamation estimates Lake Powell will reach a high water mark of 3,642.48 feet above sea level. That’s a few feet higher than last year when lake levels increased a whopping 50 feet.

A level of 3,642 feet is 48 feet below pre-drought 1999 lake-capacity levels.

Water levels holding steady is welcome news to recreationalists and water managers who have been battling a prolonged drought since year 2000.

In the summer of 1999, Lake Powell was essentially full. Five dismal water years followed with unregulated inflows totaling 62% of normal in 2000, 59% in 2001, 25% in 2002, 51% in 2003 and 49% in 2004. Lake Powell water dropped through this five-year period to a frightening level of only 33% of capacity, which was the lowest level since 1969 when the dam was only six years old.

Water conditions improved in 2005 when inflow was 105% of average. The lake level that year rose 31 feet.

Dry conditions returned in 2006 when inflow was only 71% of average. In 2007, runoff was only 68% of average.

Even after the prolonged dry spell when lake levels dropped to about 100 feet below capacity, the lake was still 450 feet deep at the dam.

When 50 feet was added to lake levels last year, fans of Lake Powell pointed out the dam functioned just as it should. It weathered one of the worst drought periods on record and is beginning to recover.

Lake Powell is 186 miles long and has 1,986 miles of shoreline. It took 17 years to fill Lake Powell.

Throughout the Upper Colorado drainage, spring conditions are expected to fill reservoirs to levels seen last year. Spring runoff river flows should follow predictable “normal” patterns based on snowpack figures.

Unaweep-Tabeguache Scenic Byway

Doug Freed — Wed, 06 May 2009 00:15:00 -0600

Road trip.

Put the top down and take a drive. There’s no shortage of beautiful – and fun – drives in Our Backyard.

Most can be made in a day, but campers may want to slow down and enjoy the journey.

Colorado boasts a total of 24 highways officially designated as Scenic and Historic Byways. Of those, 11 are in Western Colorado. Another three are within easy striking distance in eastern Utah. For a complete listing, try www.coloradobyways.org.

The Unaweep-Tabeguache drive starts just minutes from Grand Junction and offers a wonderful tour through some remote canyons of Western Colorado.

Some 133 miles of this trip are designated as an official scenic byway, but a loop route is available that totals 283 miles.

Start by taking U.S. 50 south out of Grand Junction. At Whitewater, turn west onto Colo. 141. Thus begins the Unaweep-Tabeguache Trail.

The first 44 miles of this drive winds through Unaweep Canyon, a deep cleft carved into the Uncompahgre Plateau. The road steadily gains elevation until reaching Unaweep Divide at roughly 7,000 feet.

This stretch is dotted by pastoral ranches and a few vacation homes.

The canyon narrows a bit past Unaweep Divide. Rock outcroppings on either side of the road become more stunning.

You will know you are nearing the Dolores River Valley and the town of Gateway when the La Sal Mountains become visible on the western horizon. The La Sals make only a brief appearance, however, as the route quickly descends to the Dolores River Canyon and the town of Gateway.

Gateway features Gateway Canyons Resort. This is a good spot to stretch the legs, get a bite to eat or tour the automobile museum.

From Gateway, Colo. 141 proceeds generally south up the Dolores River. This sparsely populated stretch is a gem among canyon country drives.

Just before the confluence of the San Miguel River and the Dolores is the highlight of the trip. The pull-out is not well-marked, but look for a “point of interest” sign that will mark the Hanging Flume.

The flume is visible from the roadside pull-out and is a remarkable remnant from Colorado’s gold mining history. The flume is a 13-mile aqueduct clinging hundreds of feet above the river to the sandstone walls. The flume transported nearly eight million gallons of water a day for the Montrose Placer Mining Company to use in it’s hydraulic mining operation.

Construction started in 1887 and required various engineering techniques to traverse a variety of terrain. Trestles were built over drainages. Sections suspended over the river were attached to the sheer rock faces with cantilevered iron placements.

Now in decay, the flume in 2006 was added to the World Monument Watch list of 100 most endangered sites.

Beyond the flume, Colo. 141 begins traveling along the San Miguel River for a short stretch before gaining elevation to Wrights Mesa and the towns of Redvale and Norwood. Watch for road signs in this section, as the primary route will continue on Colo. 145, as Colo. 141 exits left to the town of Slick Rock

Up on Wrights Mesa, the terrain changes character from canyonland to open mountain meadows. Mountain views include the San Juans, the Wilsons, El Diente, Lone Cone and the La Sals.

Past Norwood, the road dives steeply back down to the San Miguel River on what is known as Norwood Hill. Once back down at river level, the character of the scenery is that of a tight mountain canyon.

Continue upstream to Placerville where the officially designated Scenic Byway section ends, but not the good scenery.

Colo. 145 continues from Placerville to Telluride. Turning east on Colo. 62 toward Ridgeway is the loop route back to Grand Junction. This stretch offers one of the great views in Colorado as it traverses along the San Juan Mountains and 14,150-foot Mt. Sneffels.

At Ridgeway, turn right for a nine-mile drive to scenic Ouray, or turn left to complete the loop on U.S. Highway 50 back to Grand Junction through Montrose and Delta.